Hi there, friends! Today, as tribute to Halloween, I’m taking you with me to one of the cutest towns I’ve ever seen: Monschau, a tiny half-timbered gem in the Eifel region. We visited a few days before Halloween, and, spoiler alert, it came with a surprise. πŸ˜„

πŸ“ Quick facts

  • Location: Monschau, in the Eifel, close to the Belgian border (and yes, on the way we caught many radio stations in Dutch and French)
  • How far: around 1.5 hours by car from Cologne (each way)
  • How long we stayed: 3 hours, exactly as long as we paid for parking πŸ˜…
  • Best for: romantic walks, photos, cute cafΓ©s, and regional food

🏑 So, what exactly is Monschau?

Monschau is a small town on the river Rur. Honestly speaking, it is extremely cute, perhaps one of the cutest German towns I have been to: German-style half-timbered houses, narrow cobblestone streets (yeah, it was a bit of a challenge to walk with a pram, especially on the way back to the parking since it was uphill, but manageable overall. Quick tip: bring a baby carrier if you are planning to go with a baby, in addition to the pram), little bridges over the river, and a castle watching over everything from above. Very romantic and very inspiring. ✨

A bit of history:

  • Monschau was first mentioned in 1198, and the castle above the town dates back to the 13th century (we sadly didn’t get to go there this time, as it was too much with a pram and a cranky baby).
  • From what I read online, it was once an important cloth-making town. That’s how it got its wealth, and the beautiful houses, like the famous Red House (Rotes Haus), come from that time.
  • The old town was hardly damaged in World War II, and has more than 330 listed buildings. That’s why it still looks so well preserved.
  • In French, Monschau is called Montjoie, and you may see that on the local mustard and in some shops. πŸ‡«πŸ‡·

πŸš— About our visit

We drove from Cologne, which took us about an hour and a half each way, and found a place to park (street parking a bit up the street, for three hours, which turned out to be just right for a relaxed walk). For you, though, my suggestion would be to find a spot a bit closer to the entrance of the town.

We started our walk at the actual entrance of the town (not many options there, hehe). We walked the beautiful streets and enjoyed the local shops (my husband bought a hat. I am always super excited when it is not me making purchases in clothing shops). We checked out the Historische SenfmΓΌhle shop, where we, of course, bought some Senf (mustard) with garlic taste and some local treats.

We did what we always do on a day trip: we took a bunch of photos and videos and, of course, found something to eat. 🍟 My usual Ausflugssnack (excursion snack) is Pommes mit Currywurst. Yes, very German, I know. And our baby had a waffle (a special treat when we are outside, which he enjoys a bit more than he should). πŸ˜„

πŸŽƒ Surprise #1: Monschau goes all-in on Halloween

Here’s what surprised me a lot: the town really went all in on Halloween decorations. We saw every possible decoration: pumpkins, skeletons, spider webs, witches, lights. And not only in one location or a few houses, but literally everywhere. It was spooky and so awesome. I loved it so much! I always thought of Germany as a country where Halloween is a more modest affair, so this was a fun surprise. From what I read, Monschau even holds a big Halloween celebration on the last weekend in October. πŸ•ΈοΈ

πŸ’ Surprise #2: The wedding tree

The most peculiar thing for me was the tree covered with names and dates. First, we didn’t even realise what it was, but upon a closer look and more thorough inspection, it appeared to be a love tribute in the form of a most awesome sculpture.

Later I found out it’s the Hochzeitsbaum (wedding tree) in front of Haus Troistorff, an art and culture house in Monschau (Laufenstraße 18), where couples can even get married in a beautifully restored wallpaper room. The tree is an art installation by the artist Claus Lindner, unveiled in November 2007: couples could buy a leaf and immortalize themselves in the tree.

By 2022, all the leaves had been taken, so there’s now a copper and brass β€œwedding book” by the Monschau metal artist and master coppersmith Peter Sußner inside the house, where couples can add a plaque. I love that the tradition is still evolving. Such a romantic detail! πŸ’›

🍽️ What to eat and drink

Monschau has some local specialties that are worth trying:

  • 🌭 Monschauer Senf (mustard): the town’s most famous product, made at the historic mustard mill (built in 1882). You can taste lots of varieties, from sweet to hot. There’s even a mustard soup (Senfsuppe) on some menus.
  • πŸ₯ Monschauer DΓΌtchen: crispy wafer rolls with a cream filling
  • 🍫 Vennbrocken: sweet pralines, named after the nearby Hohes Venn moor

For coffee and cake, CafΓ© Kaulard on the market square has been run since 1958 and sells DΓΌtchen and Vennbrocken to take away. The CafΓ© am Roten Haus is also a classic.

πŸ›οΈ What we brought home

We bought some Monschau specialties: Senf (mustard) and sweets. We got a jar of garlic mustard and some DΓΌtchen and Vennbrocken. At first, I was quite surprised by the DΓΌtchen. It seemed super simple and, honestly, nothing special. The seller told us that usually you have it with some Sahne (cream), but we decided to go in a different direction and fill it with tiny pieces of raspberries first and then add some hazelnut spread. But it exceeded our expectations. Super tasty despite its simplicity.

πŸ’‘ Practical tips

  • πŸš— Parking: plan your time. We parked for 3 hours and it was just enough for a relaxed stroll, a snack and some tiny shopping.
  • πŸ‘Ά With a baby: the streets are cobblestone and narrow, and the castle hill is steep. A baby carrier may be easier than a pram, so pack accordingly. Also, it felt to me like it was a bit colder than in Cologne. Not significantly, but still, take an extra pair of gloves or a scarf if you are going in autumn or winter.
  • πŸ’ The wedding tree: you’ll find it in front of Haus Troistorff, Laufenstraße 18. Look out for the leaves with the couples’ names.
  • πŸŽ„ Christmas market: Monschau is also famous for its Christmas market, from what I heard. Expect crowds, so go early, or on a weekday. (Check the dates before you go!)

πŸ€ Final words

Monschau is the kind of place that makes you slow down and take hundreds of videos and pictures, even if you only have three hours. I’d love to come back for the Christmas market or, perhaps, bring my mother there in spring. πŸ’›

Have you been to Monschau? What was your favourite part? Tell me in the comments πŸ‘‡

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“A Ukrainian expat in Cologne writing honest stories about expat life, mental health, and the beautiful chaos of living far from home. ADHD brain. Chronic tea-starter. Occasional chaos magnet. Always writing.”